Crocheted Sontag

There are two modern patterns shown at the bottom of this page. I don't knit or crochet so I can't tell if they are good instructions or not. I would welcome some feedback.
Pattern #1                      Pattern #2

from a book entitled Name Into Word:
"Sontag is a woman's crochet'd or knitted jacket that has long ends crossing over the front and tying at the back; and it commemorates Henriette Sontag (1806-1854), a German operatic coloratura-soprano singer, ennobled in 1826. In 1828 she married Count Rossi."

Sontag is also "Sunday" in German.

I heard that the February 1859 copy of Peterson's has directions for what they call a knitted sontag. This appears to be a small cape-like garment. If any of you can locate these directions, I would be happy to post them.

Territorial Enterprise, June 21-24, 1863 
LETTER FROM MARK TWAIN

ALL ABOUT FASHIONS                                   SAN FRANCISCO, June 19

Mrs. J. B. W. wore a heavy rat-colored brocade silk, studded with large silver stars, and trimmed with organdy; balloon sleeves of nankeen pique, gathered at the wrist, cut bias and hollowed out some at the elbow; also, a bournous of black Honiton lace, scolloped, and embroidered in violent colors with a battle piece representing the taking of Holland by the Dutch; low neck and high-heeled shoes; gloves; palm leaf fan; hoops; her head-dress consisted of a simple maroon colored Sontag, with festoons of blue illusion depending from it; upon her bosom reposed a gorgeous bouquet of real sage brush, imported from Washoe. Mrs. W. looked regally handsome. If every article of dress worn by her on this occasion had been multiplied seven times, I do not believe it would have improved her appearance any. 

See photos of new and antique items:

http://linux.washwebworks.net/readymades/index.php?maxresults=10&subcategory=&itemcode=A-K&Submit=Search 

old site is http://www.originals-by-kay.com/clothing/women/accessories/crochet/ 

Crocheted Sontag Shawl pattern sold at:

http://www.jamescountry.com/frame/jcindex/patterns/millers/millers.html

The following modern instructions are posted on a website. Just in case the link quits working, I have copied the entire article.

http://world.std.com/~ata/sontag.htm

Crochet Bosom Friend (Sontag)
by Margo Mead

In 1992 the Victorian Rose (now called the Citizen's Gazette) published a pattern for a knitted bosom friend. When I saw the knitted pattern for this vest, I decided that the directions were simple enough that I could convert it into a crochet vest. Mine turned out very nicely, and JoAnna suggested that I write up the crochet directions, which were published in a later edition of the Rose. This will make about a size 16 vest. To make it larger, increase the number of stitches in the first row. Then you may need to also increase the number of stitches you do for the side fronts, and correspondingly the number of rows in the fronts. 
_ 

Materials: 

6 oz. sport weight yarn in color of your choice (MC) 
1 oz. each of 1 or 2 contrasting colors for trim (CC) 
Crochet hook size E 

Back 

Row 1: Ch 37, dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across; ch 3, turn.(35 dc) 
Rows 2?5: Dc in 2nd dc and in each dc across; ch 3, turn. 
Rows 6-35: Dc in same st as ch 3 and in each dc across to last dc, 2 dc in last dc; ch 3, turn (inc made at beginning and end of row). At end of row 35, you will have 95 dcs. 
Rows 36-42: Dc 2nd dc and in each dc across; ch 3, turn. 

First Side Front 

Row 1: Dc in 2nd dc and in next 33 dc; ch 3, turn. (35 dc) 
Rows 2-4: Dc in 2nd dc and in each dc across; ch 3, turn. 
Row 5: Dc in 2nd dc and in each dc across to last 2 dc, make dec in last 2 dc by making (yo, insert hook in first dc, yo and pull loop through, yo, insert hook in 2nd dc, pull loop through, yo, pull loop through 3 loops on hook, yo, pull loop through remaining 2 loops); ch 3, turn. (34 dc) 
Rows 6-9: Repeat Row 2. 
Row 10: Work dec dc in 2nd and 3rd sts, dc in each dc across; ch 3, turn. (33 dc) 
Rows 11-14: Repeat Row 2. 
Row 15: Repeat Row 5. (32 dc) 
Rows 16-17: Repeat Row 2. 
Row 18: Repeat Row 10. (31 dc) 
Rows 19-20: Repeat Row 2. 

Continue to decrease 1 st every 3rd row 8 more times, always decreasing on the inside edge. At end of Row 42, you will have 23 dc. Work 2 rows even. 

Row 45: Dec on inside edge. 
Row 46: Work even. Continue to decrease 1 st on inside edge every other row 7 more times. 
At end of Row 59, you will have 14 dc. Work 1 row even. 
Rows 61-72: Dec 1 st on inside edge every row. At end of Row 72, you will have 2 dc. Fasten off. 

Second Side Front 

Row 1: Sk next 36 unworked sts of back, join yarn in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc and in each dc across. Work as for First Side Front, decreasing on same rows, making sure decrease is always on inside edge. Fasten off. 

Trim 

Round 1: With MC, working in other side of foundation ch at bottom back, join yarn in any st; ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st to corner, work 3 sc in corner; 2 sc in end of each row up side of back and front; on tip of front, work total of 6 sc in side and top of 2 dc. Continue to work 2 sc in end of each row along inside edge of front; work dec sc in end of row 1 of side front and first unworked st of back (to work dec sc, pull loop up in two sts, pull through all 3 loops). Sc in each st across back to last st, work dec sc in last st and end of row 1 of side front. Continue around as outlined. 

Round 2: Join contrasting color of your choice in any sc, ch 3, work dc in each sc around, working 3 dc in corners at bottom back, 2 dc in each of 4 sc at tip of front, dec dc in 2 sts at corners of inside back. Fasten off. 

Round 3: Join in any dc, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st around, working 3 sc in corner st of bottom back, 2 sc in each of 8 front tip dc, dec sc in 2 corner sts of inside back. 

Round 4: With MC, join in any sc, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st around, working 3 sc in corners of bottom back and dec in 2 sts in corner of inside back. At tips, work even in sc to middle of tip, make ties by doing ch 91, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, sc in next st of tip, continue around, making tie at other tip also. 

Note: If you wish only 1 contrasting color, stop at 3 rows trim by skipping Round 2, working Round 3 in your CC and Round 4 in MC. 

NOTE: 

Another pattern for a sontag may be found at http://www.16thvirginia.org/bosombud.htm

BOSOM BUDDY (SONTAG OR BOSOM FRIEND)
Adapted from a 1860 Godey's pattern by Laurie Brown

Use worsted to bulky weight yarn depending on your size or look.

NEEDLE SIZE: Can vary from #5 to #8 or #10 depending on desired look and size of yarn. 

GAUGE: Measure your waist and divide by two = X. Cast on 20 stitches and knit a swatch to see how many stitches are in an inch = Y. Multiply X times Y and cast on that number of stitches.

Example, 36-inch waist divided by two, X = 18. Y = 5 stitches per inch, which means you would cast on 90 stitches.

ROWS PER INCH: When you knit your swatch, look how many rows there are in an inch. Z is rows per inch. For example, 9 rows per inch.

BLOCK PATTERN: Knit 5, purl 5 for basket pattern. Repeat for 9 rows, and then knit opposite basket pattern (purl 5, knit 5) for the next 9 rows. So we want to make the basket weave look square, at 5 stitches per inch and 9 rows per inch, this will make the blocks square.

MEASURE: Measure your shoulder width = S. Multiply S x Y = T and this is the number of stitches wide you need to reach at the top of the bosom buddy.

For example: 
S = 20", 20 x 5 = 100 stitches for T 
Z= Rows per inch 

T-Y = N which is the number of stitches you will need to increase with by the time you get to the top. 

Example: 100 - 90 = 10 stitches to increase from bottom to top.
B = Measure from the center of your neck in the back to your waist in the center back. Z x B = H which is how many rows it will take to get to the neckline from the waist.

Example: 9 x 15" = 135 rows from bottom to top.
H divided by N will give you the number of rows between every increase.
For example: 135 rows divided by 10 stitches = 13.5 rows. Increase every other side. For example, you should increase 5 on the left side and 5 on the right side. I used a safety pin to mark which side I increased on last so when it was time to increase I did so on the opposite side and then moved the pin. Increase on the end of your row every 13 or 14 rows for this example, and you should do well.

NECK: Separate stitches onto 2 needles and bind off the 5 center blocks (25 stitches). Knit pattern across for each side, decreasing as you feel necessary as you cross in the front and knit around the sides of the waist.

FINISH with desired edging and crochet or braid strings to tie. 

Knitting Lessons can be found online. 

http://www.onceuponapattern.com/custom/klesson.html

Crochet Lessons online:

http://www.onceuponapattern.com/custom/clesson.html