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Gentlemen's Apparel of the 1860’s:
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The 1860s was an interesting period for the entire western world. American fashions for both men and women were determined by the fashions of Paris and London. Especially London, with its well defined tailoring industry and men's fashion magazines, were looked to by the tailors of the United States for fashion guidance. However, it must be pointed out that for the most part the fashion plates used in the English magazines in the early 1860s actually came from Paris, even though the pattern drafts were English. Slight variations and new innovations (some that remain in fashion today) were many times the result of improved technology. |
| Some of the outstanding events in Europe just prior to and during this time increased the influence of Turkey and the mysterious East in the world of fashion. For instance smoking caps in the shape of a fez and the use of rich oriental fabrics in dressing gowns. Italy became unified and Garibaldi was the hero of the day, which led to Garibaldi jackets and shirts being worn by women and children, and Garibaldi suits for boys. |
In the United States the period was dominated by the Civil
War, but most of the 1860s was in a period of mourning both England and the
United States. England because
Prince Albert died in 1861 and Queen Victoria never came out of mourning and the
United States because it lost well over 600,000 men in the Civil War and that
left a great hardship on the nation.
It must be pointed out that when people say "Men's
fashions didn't change during the entire Victorian Era, or that the only color
they wore was black, or that the men only wore frock coats", the answer is
that they did not look closely enough.
There is a great difference in what they wore and a fashion plate.
The 1860s was a very interesting period for men's wear.
It is a transitional period between the frock coat and the more formal
men's wear of the early 1850s, and the beginnings of the "sack suit or the
lounge suit" that we now think of as a businessman's suit. There was a
great range of clothing for the men. In
rural areas with few stores, you might find suits that did not always consist of
three matching pieces.
Etiquette manuals for the mid-nineteenth century concur
that for formal evening occasions, the only proper dress for a gentleman is the
dress coat. The term "dress
coat" refers specifically to the swallow-tail coat with its distinctive
"tails". The trousers
should be without creases front and back. They
should extend a couple of inches above the waist, suspended by braces
(suspenders) rather than a belt.
There was not a lot of rapid movement in fashions in the 1860s, but there seems to be a trend towards a more relaxed look as the decade moves along. Vests were very decorative, as were suspenders or braces. Trousers often were of highly patterned material, sometimes matching the vest, most often not. One style of trousers from 1857- 1865 was called "peg-leg trousers." They were wider at the waist and sloping down to a close fit at the ankles, and waistbands were fairly narrow (1" to 1 1/2") in the front getting slightly wider in the back. A watch pocket would be in the waistband or just below it. Material varied according to the intended use. They should fit well enough at the waist to go without braces, while baggy in the seat. With no creases, the 1860s length should be the rear of the pant leg to be at the top of the shoe or boot heel with the front creased over the arch of the foot. Shape was straight or slightly narrow at the bottom.
Informal, indoor clothing often exhibited more of a flair
and had an oriental or Turkish flavor, both in shape and the use of materials.
This is especially true of dressing gowns, smoking caps, slippers, and
shawls. Fashion plates do not show men wearing shawls, but it is
known that they were worn. There
was no central heating and the houses were cold and drafty in the winters.
Shawls were also used in carriages.
Cravats or ties, were very narrow and tied in a flat bow or knotted.
| One of the most widespread capes used during this period
for outdoors and travel was the Inverness cape. The frock overcoat, a paletot,
which was loosely cut, and the Chesterfield, which was cut like a sack coat only
looser, were all worn as overcoats. Rainwear
includes coats of oilcloth and waterproofed wool. In Life in the West it is
stated that "rubber coats and leggings with the sou'-wester hats, must be
taken out for Mr. Morton and his sons."
For extremely cold weather buffalo and other fur coats were available for
those who could afford them. |
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A necktie or neckwear of any sort was quite popular during
this period. It could be as simple
as a black ribbon tied around the neck or a specially made striped tie.
Wearing something around the neck was such a common thing that even the
soldiers regularly wore ties of one sort or another with their uniforms.
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For both sexes, and all classes, covering the head was considered essential for decency. Men took great pride in their headwear. Hats of various styles were an integral part of any man's wardrobe, regardless of his social standing. Of the variety of hats that were worn, the most universal was the top hat, usually made of silk. In the mid-1860s the crown was lowered to about six inches. Other hats of the period were the bowler with its narrow rolled brim, straight brimmed, slightly turned up, straw hats in summer, cloth caps for sport, and particularly in America there appeared to be a lot of soft felt or slouch hats as they were called. By 1860 beaver hats were usually made of a combination of beaver, rabbit, and wool fur. All hats were constructed with a sweat band and lining of various quality. |
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High top boots, one of the more popular pair called Wellingtons, were of black leather and cut higher at the back. Boots were worn mainly for riding and walking, and were correct for town wear. Usually they were always black. Most common material was waxed calfskin that presents a rough outer surface and a smooth inner. Goatskin, in red or green, was used to trim better boots or waxed calf and kid (a fine, soft, supple leather). Most boots had one-piece fronts, but the two-piece Wellington was still being made. Short boots and button boots were common in the 1860s, and the late 1860s saw the advent of front-laced boots. Laced shoes and buttoned shoes were also worn with evening dress, as were patent leather dancing pumps for formal balls. Gaiters were worn in the country. Some tradesmen, such as millers, wore wooden-sole shoes similar to brogans. Overshoes in the form of rubber galoshes were introduced in 1842.
Some of the items I have in the overview are covered a
little more in depth further along in the chapter, I did not mean to repeat, but
found more information on the subject and wanted to share everything I could
find.
Bibliography:
Civil War
Gentlemen: 1860s Apparel Arts & Uniforms.
R. L. Shep & W.S .Salisbury
Civil War Era
Etiquette: R.L. Shep
Civil War
Men's Sketchbook: K. A. York
Citizens
Companion Oct/Nov 96: Bill Christen
and Bill MacIntosh
Civil War
Ladies: Patri J. Pugliese
Dressing the
Young Reenactor, Karen N. Crocker: The
Lady Reenactor - Vol. 1
Various
articles that I copied along the way but have no authors name.
Rena Hefley, SCLA August 2000
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